Amaryllis, Hippeastrum spp., are exceptionally showy bulbs often grown indoors to add bold color to our winter decor – but they can also be grown outdoors as perennials in mild regions or as annuals that are lifted and stored for winter.
The large, trumpet-shaped blooms flower in bright, saturated hues and are commonly forced to bloom indoors during the winter months, but outdoors, their natural flowering time is spring.
Hardy only in USDA Zones 9 to 11, the tender bulbs are native to tropical and subtropical regions of the Caribbean, Central America, and South America and are susceptible to damage from freezing temperatures.
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Within their hardiness range, amaryllis can remain in the ground for winter, although they might need a bit of protection from frosty temperatures or unexpected cold snaps.
To grow amaryllis outdoors outside of their hardiness range, they’ll need to be lifted and kept in a frost-free location for protection over the winter months.
We’ve got all the details about how to care for amaryllis bulbs in winter, in or out of the garden, so let’s dig in!
Here’s what you’ll find ahead:
How to Overwinter Amaryllis Bulbs
Amaryllis Bulb Basics
Amaryllis bulbs come in a range of sizes, and the larger the bulb, the bigger the flowering show.
The jumbo bulbs are 14 to 15 inches in circumference (36 to 38 centimeters) and typically produce three stems with four or five flowers per stem!
The smallest have a circumference of 10 to 11 inches (26 to 28 centimeters) and develop one or sometimes two flower stalks with three or four flowers.
They are typically available for purchase at garden centers in the fall, from September through December.
And although they’re often forced to flower over the winter months, the normal bloom time for amaryllis is in early spring.
Amaryllis can be grown outdoors as perennials in frost-free regions, and as annuals in colder areas.
And to learn more about outdoor cultivation, check out our guide to growing amaryllis outdoors in the garden.
Care After Flowering
Regardless of whether your amaryllis are grown in containers or garden beds, post-bloom care is the same.
Keeping your amaryllis healthy after flowering is what’s needed to promote blooms next season.
Allow the straplike leaves to grow throughout the summer, fertilizing and watering your plants regularly.
Take care not to overwater, which can cause issues like rot, but don’t let the soil dry out completely either.
One of the main reasons for amaryllis not flowering in the next blooming period is that they weren’t able to store enough nutrients during the post-flowering period.
To give your plants the nutrients they need, use a water-soluble fertilizer applied monthly during the growing season or apply slow release pellets in early spring and again after flowering.
A balanced feed formula with equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium works well.
Burpee Organic All Purpose Plant Food
You can find four-pound bags of granular Organic All Purpose Plant Food with a 5-5-5 NPK ratio available at Burpee.
Container plants can be fed more frequently – about every two weeks with a half-strength solution of a water soluble fertilizer.
After the blooms fade, use clean, sharp scissors to remove the flowers and prevent seeds from forming. When allowed to develop seeds, it depletes the energy reserves and can reduce flower production the following year.
Use clean, sharp shears to cut the stem just below the spent bloom, leaving the remainder of the flower stalk in place if it’s still bright green and healthy.
As long as the flower stem is green, it continues to photosynthesize helping the bulb to store energy for future flowers and foliage. Once the color lightens and starts to turn yellow, remove the stem, trimming it close to the base.
By mid to late fall, amaryllis plants usually enter a dormant period that lasts three to four months.
At this time, the foliage typically turns yellow and dies back for winter, although some of the foliage may remain in mild regions.
Fertilizing should be withheld from late summer onwards.
Overwinter In-Ground
For gardeners in Zones 9 to 11, amaryllis can be overwintered in place. For those outside of this range, they should be lifted and stored for winter, which we’ll cover later in this article.
For in-ground care, after the foliage has turned brown and shriveled, gently pull it away or cut it from the bulb with clean, sharp scissors.
If you live in an area with mild winters, the foliage may remain evergreen year round. It’s fine to leave it in place but withhold water and fertilizers until spring.
In areas that never experience frost they require no additional mulching for winter protection.
In areas where frost is possible, add a four-inch layer of winter mulch to protect them from cold temperatures, using porous materials to prevent standing water, such as bark mulch, conifer needles, pebbles, or straw.
Winter rainfall is usually adequate to keep the dormant bulbs viable, but in very dry conditions, watering occasionally helps to prevent shrinkage.
If rainfall is inadequate, water lightly once a month.
Lift and Store
If you’re growing outside of their hardiness range, the cold-tender bulbs need to be lifted and stored in a protected environment for the winter months.
In late summer to early autumn after the foliage dies back, pull away or cut back the leaves to one to two inches above the bulb.
If your plants are still green and vibrant in mid-August, reduce supplemental watering for two weeks then withhold it altogether to force them into dormancy.
Use a spade to lift the bulbs carefully, gently brushing away any dirt that clings to the surface.
For storage, they can be potted up into small containers or stored loose in a bin or box.
Use boxes with good airflow like perforated cardboard, woven jute, seagrass or wicker, or wire mesh. But avoid plastic, which can trap and hold moisture, causing issues like rot.
I like to use a box with a sturdy frame so I can stack and store a variety of bulbs as they’re lifted from the garden.
This set of two woven jute boxes with handles are perfect for the job and are available at Wayfair.
To transfer bulbs to small nursery pots for storage, trim the roots then place them in pots that are a few inches wider than the bulb’s circumference.
Add some coconut coir, peat moss, or dry potting soil to cover the bulbs about halfway, but leave the neck exposed.
Loose bulbs can be gently rinsed with a garden hose, dried thoroughly, then stored in an open basket or box nestled into some coconut coir or peat moss.
Store in a cool, dark, and dry environment. The ideal temperature is in the range of 40 to 50°F, and they’ll be fine in temperatures up to 60°F.
But do not store amaryllis bulbs in the fridge.
I know there’s oodles of online advice saying that fridge storage is okay as long as there are no apples present but these are tropical bulbs that don’t require any chill hours to bloom.
However, they do have a dormancy period, and cool, but not cold, temperatures help them to rest – they might survive the mistreatment of fridge storage, but they won’t be happy about it and reduced flowering can be expected.
If you don’t have a cool basement, garage, or shed to store your bulbs, tuck them into a dark cupboard in the coolest room in your home. A cool environment is far better for them than chilly refrigerator temperatures.
Check them monthly to look for signs of shriveling or withering that can indicate that they’re becoming too dry.
If they’re starting to dry and pucker, give them a light touch of water – but no more than just a few tablespoons sprinkled onto the storage medium or the soil of a potted plant.
Check in a few days and repeat as needed until the shriveling eases up – usually one or two applications is sufficient.
Store bulbs for a minimum of eight weeks and as much as 12 weeks, a longer rest period produces more abundant flowering.
After dormancy, pot up loose bulbs and move them into a warm location to sprout – our guide to repotting amaryllis has all the details.
When overnight temperatures stay above 50°F, you can plant them out into the garden.
Container Care
After flowering, treat container-grown specimens the same as those growing in the garden.
Water and fertilize regularly until late in the growing season.
In frost-free regions, container plants can remain in place.
But if you receive lots of winter rainfall, move your pots into a sheltered spot or rain shadow so they’re not constantly saturated. Under eaves or a large evergreen, or against a fence or wall are suitable locations.
It’s also a good idea to remove catchment saucers and elevate containers on bricks, pot toes, or a couple of pieces of lumber to prevent standing water.
And the soil in containers must be well-draining.
If winters in your region are dry, water the bulbs monthly if needed. But go lightly and give them only small sips of water, just enough to prevent shriveling.
In colder regions with regular frosty temperatures, the containers need to be moved into a frost-free location for winter.
In late summer, reduce watering for two weeks then withhold it entirely for another two to six weeks.
Remove the foliage as it withers and dies, cutting it back to one to two inches.
Move containers into a frost free environment like a shed or garage before nighttime temperatures drop to 50°F. If needed, provide them with a small sip of water monthly to prevent the bulbs from drying and shriveling.
Once spring temperatures return and new growth emerges, move them back into a sunny spot outdoors to resume growth.
Healthy Bulbs for Showy Flowers
Amaryllis are appreciated for their large, showy flowers as indoor winter ornamentals and they’re superb in the garden as well!
In frost free regions, they pretty much look after themselves. But you may need to move container plants into a rain shadow if heavy winter rains are normal.
If you receive light frosts, they can be left in-ground but need to be planted deeply and mulched heavily for protection.
For areas outside of their hardiness range, they can be moved into a frost free site to overwinter and bloom again in spring.
How do you folks handle tropical garden bulbs like amaryllis over winter? Let us know in the comments section below.
And for more information about growing amaryllis, check out these guides next:
